Bites of Bliss

After a couple of days of eating the heavy roasts, stews, and braises that seem to make up our usual Christmas week meals, I find myself yearning for the fresh, spicy tastes of Asian food. For the past couple of years, Robin, Dave, and I have been ringing in the New Year with a feast of assorted buns, wraps, potstickers, and noodle dishes. The one constant is a delicious Vietnamese-inspired salad we found in an unlikely place: Jasper White's Cooking From New England, the classic New England cookbook from the chef whose eponymous Boston eating establishment almost singlehandedly launched that city's vibrant restaurant scene.

The star of the dish is Pandalus borealis, the tiny, sweet, pinkish crustacean that is local to Maine and New Hampshire waters, and is only available fresh in the winter.

When we first discovered Maine shrimp, the season was way too short -- a mere three or four weeks -- which meant we tried to find ways to enjoy them nearly every weekend. (Frozen Pandalus borealis is the source of the amazing fried baby shrimp you can usually find in New England seafood dives come summer.) This year, the season, which began in early December, goes until May, which will greatly increase the pleasure they bring.

Unlike their southern cousins, Maine baby shrimp are very delicate; they can be cooked only briefly, or they become mushy and bland. But when handled carefully, they taste like a kiss of the sea. In the New Hampshire Seacoast area, you can find Maine shrimp at most seafood markets -- some even sell them already peeled, which is very handy, unless you need to make a broth for a chowder or stew. The shrimp are also available at Seacoast Eat Local Winter Markets. In the Boston area, you can frequently find them at Whole Foods. In some places, they are also available at roadside stands.

Nam Tran's Shrimp and Cabbage Salad

Jasper White's Cooking From New England

Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer

Ingredients (NOTE: if you are using peeled baby shrimp, you can eliminate the first five ingredients and Step 1 of the Directions. In that case, you will saute the shrimp in a little peanut oil for barely a minute right before you mix the salad.)

1/2 cup of white rice wine vinegar

1 small onion, sliced

cilantro stems

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

2 pounds of Maine shrimp

Cabbage Salad

1 Chinese or Napa cabbage, finely shredded (5 cups)

1 large carrot, cut in paper-thin julienne

1/4 pound Chinese ham or cappicola, cut in thin (1/4 x 1 inch) julienne (When using cappicola, I prefer hot to sweet.)

1 cup cilantro leaves

1/2 cup white rice wine vinegar

1/3 cup peanut oil

2 tablespoons Chinese hot-chili oil

2 tablespoons sugar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup roasted peanuts, chopped

Fried white shrimp chips for garnish (optional)

Directions

1. Combine 3 cups water with 1/2 cup vinegar in a saucepan with the onion, cilantro stems, salt, and peppercorns. Simmer for 5 minutes, then bring to a hard boil. Add the unpeeled shrimp. After exactly one minute, scoop out the shrimp with a wire basket or slotted spoon and spread out on a sheetpan. Peel the shrimp and set aside.

2. Prepare the salad ingredients, but do not mix the salad until about 20 minutes before it is to be served. Then combine the shrimp, cabbage, carrot, ham, cilantro leaves, vinegar, peanut oil, hot chili oil, and sugar; season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill.

3. Right before serving, add the peanuts, check the seasoning and toss once more. Serve on small plates or in shallow glass bowls. Garnish with shrimp chips, if using.

(NOTE: If you have salad left over, drain off the dressing before storing. You can save dressing in a small jar and pour over before re-serving.)